Practical steps to reduce winter losses: feeding, insulation, hive checks, and ensuring strong colonies going into the cold months.
Stores, feeding, varroa timing, entrances, ventilation, insulation, stormproofing (straps/weights), tilt, mouse guards, removing the queen excluder, and wooden vs poly notes.
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Preparing Bees for Winter (UK)
UK checklist for winter-ready colonies: stores, feeding, varroa, entrances, ventilation, insulation, stormproofing and records. Includes notes for wooden vs poly hives and Flow users.
When to start (UK)
Late summer to early autumn. Remove honey supers, assess stores, treat for varroa (as per label), and ensure a strong, healthy cluster before cold sets in.
Target stores & feeding
- Target stores: Many UK beekeepers aim for ~18–20 kg of sealed stores in the brood area (local forage and hive type vary).
- Autumn feeding: Heavy 2:1 syrup straight after harvest so bees can ripen & cap before cold.
- Winter top-ups: Fondant placed directly above the cluster in mid-winter if light.
- Tools: Sugar Syrup Calculator · Winter Feeding (UK).
Varroa management (post-harvest + mid-winter)
The two high-impact windows are immediately after the final harvest (supers off) and again mid-winter when colonies are brood-minimal/broodless (oxalic acid trickle or sublimation per label). See: When to Treat for Varroa (UK).
Entrances & pest pressure
- Reduce entrances in autumn to help defence and deter robbing.
- Wasp pressure: Set traps away from hives; keep colonies strong. See our autumn wasp tips in Hive How-Tos.
- Bee-tight sheds/stores: Adult moths and rodents target stacks; keep storage secure.
Ventilation & condensation control
- Dry not draughty: Sound roof; no leaks. Most UK setups do not need top vents.
- Slight forward tilt prevents condensation pooling and rain ingress under the roof (see Tilt forward).
Insulation & crownboard
- Insulate above the crownboard (25–50 mm PIR/foam or insulated board) to reduce heat loss and drip.
- Balance: Insulate the top; keep side vents minimal; cluster warmth rises.
Securing hives: straps & weights
- Ratchet straps: One over the roof and under the floor/stand; cinch firmly.
- Weights: Bricks/blocks help, but use a strap as primary in exposed sites.
- Stand & site: Level stand; add windbreaks without trapping damp.
- After storms: Re-check straps, roofs, and box alignment.
Mouse guards (essential)
- Fit in autumn before cold drives mice to seek warmth.
- Hole size: ~7–8 mm or slotted guards—bees pass, mice don’t.
- Fixing: Screw or pin in place; keep entrance clear.
Tilt the hive slightly forward
- Why: Stops condensation pooling and helps shed rain.
- How much: ~3–5 mm drop across the floor depth—just a slight tilt.
Remove the queen excluder
- Remove in autumn: Prevents the queen being left below as the cluster moves up.
- Wintering: Run brood box(es) only; refit excluder with supers in spring.
Wooden vs poly hives (winter notes)
| Hive type | Winter behaviour | Insulation need | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wooden hives | Lose heat faster; more prone to condensation on cold lids. | Recommended: Insulated crownboard/roof; optional wrap in exposed sites. | Prioritise a dry roof, slight forward tilt, and top insulation. |
| Poly hives | Higher insulation; often run as “condensing hives.” | Often not required (walls/lids insulated). | Still keep hives dry and slightly tilted; avoid unnecessary vents. |
Notes for Flow Hive users
- Remove the Flow super after your last harvest.
- Feed & treat on brood boxes only; never through Flow frames.
- Spring: Refit the Flow super when brood boxes are strong and a nectar flow begins.
Hefting, quick checks & records
- Heft monthly: If light, add fondant above the cluster.
- Quick looks: On mild days, brief checks for cluster and visible stores.
- Records: Note stores, treatments, queen status—plan spring actions.
Winter FAQs
When should I remove the queen excluder?
Remove in autumn before wintering so the queen is not trapped below.
Do I need to insulate the hive?
Top insulation is recommended for wooden hives; many poly hives already provide sufficient insulation.
Where should I place fondant in winter?
Directly above the cluster—over the crownboard feed hole or on top of frames. See Winter Feeding (UK).
What’s a simple varroa schedule around winter?
Treat straight after your final harvest, then again mid-winter during a brood-minimal window.
How much should I tilt the hive?
Only a slight forward tilt (~3–5 mm drop across the floor depth).
Do I need mouse guards on every hive?
Yes—fit in autumn before cold weather. Use ~7–8 mm holes/slotted guards.
What’s a simple varroa schedule around winter?
Treat straight after your final harvest (supers off), then again mid-winter during a brood-minimal window (oxalic acid per label). More: When to Treat for Varroa (UK).
How much should I tilt the hive?
Only a slight forward tilt (~3–5 mm drop across the floor depth) to shed condensation and rain.
Do I need mouse guards on every hive?
Yes—fit in autumn before cold weather pushes mice to seek warmth. Use ~7–8 mm holes/slotted guards and fix them securely.