Winter Preparation • UK

Practical steps to reduce winter losses: feeding, insulation, hive checks, and ensuring strong colonies going into the cold months.

Stores, feeding, varroa timing, entrances, ventilation, insulation, stormproofing (straps/weights), tilt, mouse guards, removing the queen excluder, and wooden vs poly notes.

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Preparing Bees for Winter (UK)

UK checklist for winter-ready colonies: stores, feeding, varroa, entrances, ventilation, insulation, stormproofing and records. Includes notes for wooden vs poly hives and Flow users.

🐝 Want a head start next season? Secure your colony now:

When to start (UK)

Late summer to early autumn. Remove honey supers, assess stores, treat for varroa (as per label), and ensure a strong, healthy cluster before cold sets in.

Target stores & feeding

  • Target stores: Many UK beekeepers aim for ~18–20 kg of sealed stores in the brood area (local forage and hive type vary).
  • Autumn feeding: Heavy 2:1 syrup straight after harvest so bees can ripen & cap before cold.
  • Winter top-ups: Fondant placed directly above the cluster in mid-winter if light.
  • Tools: Sugar Syrup Calculator · Winter Feeding (UK).
Important: Remove honey supers (including Flow supers) before applying any chemical treatment. Do not feed through Flow frames.

Varroa management (post-harvest + mid-winter)

The two high-impact windows are immediately after the final harvest (supers off) and again mid-winter when colonies are brood-minimal/broodless (oxalic acid trickle or sublimation per label). See: When to Treat for Varroa (UK).

Entrances & pest pressure

  • Reduce entrances in autumn to help defence and deter robbing.
  • Wasp pressure: Set traps away from hives; keep colonies strong. See our autumn wasp tips in Hive How-Tos.
  • Bee-tight sheds/stores: Adult moths and rodents target stacks; keep storage secure.

Ventilation & condensation control

  • Dry not draughty: Sound roof; no leaks. Most UK setups do not need top vents.
  • Slight forward tilt prevents condensation pooling and rain ingress under the roof (see Tilt forward).

Insulation & crownboard

  • Insulate above the crownboard (25–50 mm PIR/foam or insulated board) to reduce heat loss and drip.
  • Balance: Insulate the top; keep side vents minimal; cluster warmth rises.

Securing hives: straps & weights

  • Ratchet straps: One over the roof and under the floor/stand; cinch firmly.
  • Weights: Bricks/blocks help, but use a strap as primary in exposed sites.
  • Stand & site: Level stand; add windbreaks without trapping damp.
  • After storms: Re-check straps, roofs, and box alignment.

Mouse guards (essential)

  • Fit in autumn before cold drives mice to seek warmth.
  • Hole size: ~7–8 mm or slotted guards—bees pass, mice don’t.
  • Fixing: Screw or pin in place; keep entrance clear.

Tilt the hive slightly forward

  • Why: Stops condensation pooling and helps shed rain.
  • How much: ~3–5 mm drop across the floor depth—just a slight tilt.

Remove the queen excluder

  • Remove in autumn: Prevents the queen being left below as the cluster moves up.
  • Wintering: Run brood box(es) only; refit excluder with supers in spring.

Wooden vs poly hives (winter notes)

Hive type Winter behaviour Insulation need Notes
Wooden hives Lose heat faster; more prone to condensation on cold lids. Recommended: Insulated crownboard/roof; optional wrap in exposed sites. Prioritise a dry roof, slight forward tilt, and top insulation.
Poly hives Higher insulation; often run as “condensing hives.” Often not required (walls/lids insulated). Still keep hives dry and slightly tilted; avoid unnecessary vents.

Notes for Flow Hive users

  • Remove the Flow super after your last harvest.
  • Feed & treat on brood boxes only; never through Flow frames.
  • Spring: Refit the Flow super when brood boxes are strong and a nectar flow begins.

Hefting, quick checks & records

  • Heft monthly: If light, add fondant above the cluster.
  • Quick looks: On mild days, brief checks for cluster and visible stores.
  • Records: Note stores, treatments, queen status—plan spring actions.
✅ Ready to go next season? Explore our Overwintered nucs and Flow-compatible Langstroth nucs.

Winter FAQs

When should I remove the queen excluder?

Remove in autumn before wintering so the queen is not trapped below.

Do I need to insulate the hive?

Top insulation is recommended for wooden hives; many poly hives already provide sufficient insulation.

Where should I place fondant in winter?

Directly above the cluster—over the crownboard feed hole or on top of frames. See Winter Feeding (UK).

What’s a simple varroa schedule around winter?

Treat straight after your final harvest, then again mid-winter during a brood-minimal window.

How much should I tilt the hive?

Only a slight forward tilt (~3–5 mm drop across the floor depth).

Do I need mouse guards on every hive?

Yes—fit in autumn before cold weather. Use ~7–8 mm holes/slotted guards.

What’s a simple varroa schedule around winter?

Treat straight after your final harvest (supers off), then again mid-winter during a brood-minimal window (oxalic acid per label). More: When to Treat for Varroa (UK).

How much should I tilt the hive?

Only a slight forward tilt (~3–5 mm drop across the floor depth) to shed condensation and rain.

Do I need mouse guards on every hive?

Yes—fit in autumn before cold weather pushes mice to seek warmth. Use ~7–8 mm holes/slotted guards and fix them securely.