Preparing Your Bees for Winter: A Step-by-Step Guide
Our proven system at Jurassic Bees: early super removal, early varroa control, feeding strategy, colony compression, weighing & final oxalic treatment — for big, healthy winter bees.
Why Preparing Bees for Winter Matters
Winter success hinges on raising plenty of healthy “fat” winter bees. These long-lived bees store protein in their fat bodies and keep the cluster alive for up to six months. High varroa and late, damp feeding create virus pressure and nosema risk — the enemies of winter survival.
Remove Honey Supers (Last Week of August)
- Take supers off early so you can begin varroa treatment immediately.
- Spin out honey-bound brood frames to give the queen laying space.
- Early super removal = early virus control for winter bees.
We align this with our Overwintered Nucs schedule so colonies are clean and strong going into autumn.
Apply Apivar Early (Late August)
- With supers off, add Apivar so mite numbers collapse before winter bees are raised.
- Compress colonies in early September to a smaller space for warmth, reduced condensation, and better strip contact.
- Smaller volume also deters wax moth and boosts treatment efficiency.
Stimulate Brood with 1:1 Syrup
- Begin 1:1 sugar syrup after Apivar. This simulates a nectar flow and triggers egg-laying.
- Goal: a big colony full of winter bees before cold weather halts brood rearing.
- Continue 1:1 until bees stop flying regularly (to avoid moisture & nosema issues).
Switch to 2:1 in October (+ Hive Alive)
- By October, brood rearing winds down — switch to 2:1 syrup (we use Hive Alive).
- 2:1 is stored directly as winter food; you can’t “overfeed” once brood rearing ends.
- Target: reach ~26 kg of stores before the end of October.
Fondant Only After Late October
- After late October we avoid liquid feed unless a colony hits the zero weight.
- Use fondant on the crownboard — avoids adding moisture to the hive.
Prefer a fresh start? See our Spring Nucs for May deliveries.
Final Varroa Clean-Up (Late November)
- When colonies are broodless, treat with Api-Bioxal. We prefer vapour, dribble is also effective.
- This keeps mite levels near zero throughout winter.
Insulation, Space & Inspections
Right-Size the Space
We compress colonies in early September so bees have less space to heat and maintain. A tighter cluster reduces condensation, improves Apivar contact and efficiency, and helps deter wax moth.
Insulate & Protect
Poly nuc boxes provide superior insulation versus correx/wood. Fit entrance reducers to keep out wasps and mice, and site hives out of prevailing winds.

Start Next Season Strong
Order Overwintered Nucs, already fed, treated and prepared using this exact system.
Winter Beekeeping FAQs (UK)
How much food do bees need for winter in the UK?
Target about 26 kg of stores by end of October. Our Overwintered Nucs are built to this target before sale.
When should I stop feeding liquid syrup?
Stop when bees stop flying regularly, typically in October. After this point, switch to fondant to avoid adding moisture and the associated nosema risk.
Why is early varroa treatment important?
Applying treatments in late August lowers mite levels before winter bees are raised. This reduces virus loads and significantly improves winter survival.
Do nucs need special care in winter?
Yes. Smaller colonies are more vulnerable to cold and starvation. Overwinter them in insulated poly equipment, compress space, and monitor weight routinely.
Do I treat for varroa in winter too?
Yes. When colonies are broodless in late November, treat with oxalic acid (vapour or dribble) to keep mite levels near zero throughout winter.
Should I wrap hives or just insulate?
In the UK, insulated poly hives with good ventilation are preferred. Full wraps can trap moisture; use entrance reducers and site hives out of prevailing winds.